05.05.2025.
Velika Planina in Slovenia unveils its incredible beauty in the springtime when gorgeous saffrons start to bloom. When these charming fields, known as the Valley of herdsmen, dress all in purple, who can resist?
Beautiful to visit all year through, Velika Planina (Big Mountain) with the start of April has a special allure. During two weeks, it becomes an attractive destination to recharge your batteries through the hiking spirit.
Close to the town of Kamnik, you’ll have plenty of things to occupy your attention. If you’re planning to take a day trip from Ljubljana, it’s possible though a bit tricky.
If you’re visiting Slovenia for a week or two, don’t miss the marvelous Valley of the Soča River.
Being pretty popular during the saffron season, Velika Planina is a cozy European trail perfect for families.
Unfortunately, it was bad weather during my visit and I don’t have great photos so I will need to return.
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How to come to Velika Planina
The best way to reach Velika Planina is by car and park in Rakove Ravni near the village of Krivčevo. For the parking place you’ll pay 10€ and that is an official parking.
There is one more parking Mačkin kot, but might not be always available. Only 30 minutes walk to Velika Planina is required here.
Without the car
If you’re without a car, don’t worry. Arriving in Kamnik from Ljubljana is easy within 1h and service runs often. To Kamniška Bistrica there’s only one bus a day- at 10,30 h usually. Actually, the cable car lies a bit before Kamniška Bistrica. Returning to Ljubljana and catching an earlier bus is possible with hitchhiking. Seeing the several foreigners doing so is the best way to explain it.
You can also stay overnight in the hostel near the cable car.
Costing 26€ you’ll change a cable car and a chairlift. Only the cable car is 24€, but you’ll need to walk 1h to Velika Planina- possibly a bit less.
About Velika Planina
Within the soft scenery of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, you’ll find the traditional herdsmen’s villages. At this high mountain plateau, you’ll find about 200 huts embraced by the picturesque images. Only 63 belong to the herders and you can stay overnight in some of them.
Covering 13 villages of Velika Planina, you can choose between several different trails. Whether you start in Kranjski Rak, Kraljev hrib or Strahovica, your adventure highlights the beauty of Velika Planina.
The highest point is Gradišće (1666m) and the Herdsmen Valley is the largest one in Europe.
During the summer months, the Valley becomes more lively when herders take out the cattle. Usually the caddle stays in the paddock, but sometimes they’re also free to roam.
What to see & where to lunch
From Velika Planina (Big Mountain) to Menina Planina (Small Mountain) stretch the vast pastures and lovely huts. In the museum known as Preskar hut you can visit the small collection from June to September.
Snow Mary Chapel dominates the valley and is open year-round for the masses. Though it was burnt in the Second World War, the reconstruction was successful in 1988.
Trying the famous trnič cheese by herdsmen is an opportunity not to miss. In some of the alpine huts, relax with the local palenta, made with melted fat. On Velika Planina, it’s also popular to try the delicious strudels with the cottage cheese filling and berry sauce.
All these delicacies are served in Domžalski dom, Jarški dom and Črnuški dom in Mala Planina, but also at Dom na Kisovcu. Here you can also have some mountain dishes, such as the stew.
When to visit Velika Planina
Velika Planina offers a fantastic retreat to the mountain serenity throughout the whole year. With the spring allure that saffrons bring, you’ll have a fairy tale time on Velika Planina. During the summer with the caddle around Velika Planina breathes its authentic feeling and autumn colours will simply enchant you. Enjoying the snow in winter sounds so cozy on these pleasant trails.
If saffrons are your reason to visit Velika Planina, the first two weeks in April give the perfect timing. As the trail can be busy during these insane blooming, it’s better to choose weekdays.
You can get the accurate situation of the blooming and other circumstances at the Instagram profile of Velika Planina.
What to expect during the trail
From the parking place Rakove Ravni, you will follow the macadam road to Mala Planina, including a slightly steep ascent. With the breathtaking views, you’ll have a pleasant hiking experience.
Following the carpets of saffrons you will pass by several alpine huts and arrive to Velika Planina.
If you’re coming by cable car, the trail goes the other way around, starting at Velika Planina.
Completing the Path of the herdsmen takes 7km or 2,15h. Counting the photo breaks, you will surely need a double of this time.
About Kamnik town & other attractions in the area
Except Velika Planina, the Kamnik area will give you fantastic reasons to explore more than a day. Within its medieval ambiance, the town of Kamnik offers a rich history. Two stunning castles, Mali Grad and Stari Grad, burst with splendid views. In the Museum of Kamnik, Zaprice Manor, once lived the noble family and represents a charming insight to the past.
Relaxing in the Snovik Spa in Tuhinj Valley is the perfect way to absorb the enchanting vibes of Velika Planina.
Kamniška Bistrica
Kamniška Bistrica will allure with its river spring, popular with cyclists. Close to the spring lie the marvelous gorges of Veliki and Mali Predaselj. Orglice Waterfall stretches about 2 km after the cable car with its cozy hiking trail.
Arboretum Volčji Potok
Close to the town of Kamnik, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Arboretum Volčji Potok. Nestled in the village of Radomlje, it’s a 10-minute drive from Kamnik and 1h walking route. During the springtime, the tulip elegance is very popular, but you can also enjoy roses, orchids and cacti.
Where to stay
Guest House Kraljev Hrib– cozy and serene, located close to the cable car you’ll enjoy plenty of activities;
Slovenia Eco Resort– located in Godič near Strahovica, you’ll have bungalows with wellness facilities and lovely garden;
ABC Apartments Kamnik– with a garden view and terrace, it’s a tranquil place with great location;
Koča Bistra Velika Planina– a luxury stay with a peaceful atmosphere for the equipe;
Final thoughts
Inspired by saffrons, Velika Planina awakens the fantastic weekend in Slovenia. It’s more than a day trip from Ljubljana, though still manageable. The pristine valley of the Herdsmen path will take you back in time and you cannot miss its culinary delicacies.
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What a stunning place! It looks like a relaxing space for the soul.
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