19.03.2019.
Have you ever heard of Val d’Orcia? Beside the famous Chianti, this is where you can find the fairy-tale vibes in Tuscany. It’s a pity that it was raining all 5 days during my visit, but I found out that rain sometimes brings exquisite photos. Val d’Orcia got the name by river Orcia that crosses the line to the province of Grosetto. Located south of Siena to Monte Abiata, Val d’Orcia represents the protected area of UNESCO where nothing is allowed to be built. This way the landscape shines in its pure light.
Such a dreamy destination you cannot miss on your way to the major towns in Tuscany. Beside the soft hills in Val d’Orcia, the outdoor enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the Apuan Alps.
What to expect
Arriving to Asciano Monte Oliveto train station on Sunday afternoon my heart knocks peacefully and crazy at the same time. Something I was waiting whole my life awaits me at the palm of my hand. Arranged to stay at my couchsurfing host, (the german family of artists near Trequanda) I am more than satisfied with this idea and opportunity. After discovering the adventure of waiting at the train station because my host is a little bit late, I am bathed into the amazing images of Tuscany.
The artistic hosts in Val d’Orcia & fairy tale house to stay
We’re taking the longer way to the house. My host Brigitte Deval is lady in her 70s who was once doing incredible dolls and now is more focused to the art of Christmas decorations. These are being sold at the fair of Munich where she’s originally.
The daughters are following parent’s example and making jewellery, studying art in Firenze and doing some occasional coaching. In the fascinating surrounding of picturesque Val d’Orcia this doesn’t seem very problematic. Even Brigitte is doing some artistic workshops and sometimes renting her place. Pepper pots they’re doing are being served across the most famous restaurants. More about her work you can find here.
Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore
Stopping at the abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore is the first win. It’s a large Benedictine monastery, located 10 km from Asciano in the region Crete Senesi. Little welcoming bridge, red brick, cypress forrest, fish pool that once was very useful, shop with the souvenirs and the handmade products and the amazing frescos inside is what characterises this spiritual resort. Its roots go back in 1313. In the very proximity of the abbey landscape creates specific rock valley.
The hilly appearance of the villages and towns in Val d’Orcia that can be seen as the chain of the medieval fortresses and magic begins for me with Chiusure. At the distance of 1 km from above mentioned abbey, this little place shines in peace through tiny cobblestone streets and the main square with a flowery well.
Trequanda & the abandonded train station
Close to Trequanda lies the abandoned train station, but Nature train still passes here at certain time. It happens from May to October every Sunday giving the insight to life as it was once. The Comunal Palace in Trequanda is quite impressive because of its artworks and landscape views.
Pretty towns and villages
Sinalunga is the main traffic point in Val d’Orcia. It’s the place to see the outstanding architecture among picturesque streets from Etruscan area.
Montepulciano
Marvels of the fortified town Montepulciano make it the most popular town in Val d’Orcia. Nestled at its southern corners it offers the most picturesque view from its terrace to the stunning landscape. The school that once existed was used to all the children of the Val d’Orcia region.
The church of Sant Biagio with its alley of cypruses belongs to this puzzle of fabulous views. The main square in Montepulciano offers the impressive atmosphere of the palaces. The most exquisite characteristic of Montepulciano are the historic wine cantinas under the imposant palaces.
The cultural life & events in Montepulciano
The special charm of Montepulciano belongs to its cultural vibe, which is particularly live at Bravio delle Botti. Happening at the end of August it represents the competition with wine barrels.
Cantiere Internazionale del’Arte is a colourful cultural event that for decades highlights the panorama of Montepulciano. Cioccolando is an unmissable happening in March, a lovely chocolate festival.
Pienza
Pienza took me in the world beyond words, beyond imagination. It’s the town of its own where narrow streets find their way- la via del’amore, la via dei baci, la via della fortuna. Within the fortified structure surrounded by the long terrace you can enjoy the views inside and outside the town. What a feeling of amazement to realise that being on right place is just here, whether in Pienza or just anywhere where you can find fabulous view with proper names.
Pienza, Montepulciano and other towns definitely remind me to the magical Croatian peninsula- Istria.
Pecorino cheese- the unique characteristic of Pienza
Pecorino cheese makes Pienza so special. The local shops at every corner offer the chance to buy it or even taste it. The truth is that not only local people are producing pecorino but actually many people moved from Sardegna to Tuscany long time ago while the houses where cheap. Soon started the charasteristic production of pecorino cheese of all kinds.
More than that, every first Sunday in September Pienza hosts the cheese festival. It’s not just a usual festival as you can watch and participate in the ancient game called Palio del Cacio Fuso.
Pienza e i fiori (Pienza and the flowers) is the second most important happening in this lovely place that makes it even more lovely during the two weeks in May. Who doesn’t like streets of tiny town decorated with flowers?
What makes Pienza special is the fact that the centre of the town belongs to UNESCO World Heritage Site all the way from 1996. The similar status spreads out to the entire Val d’Orcia in 2004. making it part of UNESCO’s World Cultural Landscapes. Pienza itself owes such title due to the role and design of ideal town.
The thermal paradise & natural thermal baths
Proceeding more south through Val d’Orcia towards the natural thermal paradise of Bagni San Filippo we can see in distance the highest peak of the mountain Monte Amiata with its 1736m. Once it was a volcano and thus the existence of many thermal baths in Tuscany.
Bagni San Filippo are two hours away from Siena and the ones more popular are Saturnia Terme close to Grosetto. It’s the complex of warm and cold thermal waters so lucky are those that live in surroundings as it’s convenient to take a bath in winter. Standing in front of „Balena“ (or whale) that burst out like waterfall in various colours through the salt that’s been compressed is the scene beyond words like standing in front of the Eiffel tower or any other wonder of the world. There’s a little coffee shop in the place so don’t worry that you’ll be out of reach. You can even buy souvenirs. On the way to Bagni San Filippo there are many thermal resorts and Bagni Vignolo with its warm and large pool that decorate the place captures the most impressive pictures.
One very old oak circondated by stones is the rarest of its kind and worth taking a pause by the road. It’s recognized in 2017. as the first green monument so this 300 years old oak named „la Quercia delle Checche“ or „la Quercia delle quercie“ is admirable.
Final thoughts
Besides being the world’s famous photo object, Val d’Orcia is the place that can be an example of protected area which should be considered even in the places without such title. Besides being the fairy-tale landscape, Val d’Orcia is the region where every moment should be taken as unique. It’s the example of greatfulness and the world full of content. To observe it represents beginning but not enough, Val d’Orcia is just something you have to experience.
Great post, i wish i was there now lol..i really love travelling
Thanks a lot