Hiking in Croatia- Majestic Velebit and its legendary Premužić trail

31.05.2021.

The wildness of this largest mountain range in Croatia has created the impressive stone formations. Premužić trail has shaped the main path built by Ante Premužić during the 1930. Though mostly straight its 57 km shows the stunning diversity of nature.

North Velebit has been proclaimed as National Park in 2017. Fabulous seaside views will accompany you almost through the entire Premužić trail.

20 years ago I crossed the same path and more during the five days in summer triumphing the stone peaks, feeling blisters but refreshing the memory is needed. We even met the famous croatian alpinist Stipe Božić at that time.

During our hike last weekend crossing the paths with young people from Austria was quite surprising. People from Šibenik followed the same path as we did, but some took the opposite direction.

Botanical garden

Unfortunately we only had a glimpse over Botanical garden which is located several minutes down from Zavižan mountain hut. Following the road from Krasno village we arrive at the starting point within 25 minutes from the beginning of Premužić trail.

Zavižan mountain hut is a starting point for many hiking trails at the North Velebit where the stunning views over the seaside and islands await. Meteorological station based here is one of the oldest in Croatia dating from 1953. Zavižan mountain hut requires a warm cloths inluding the hat even in the summer months. The family Vukušić take care about the meteorological station and mountain hut itself. Nearby peaks that can be reached are: Veliki Zavižan 1676 m, Balinovac 1601 m, Velika (Zavižanska) Kosa 1620 m, Vučjak 1644 m;

Botanical garden opened in 1967. is a treasure of more than 300 unique plants of Velebit. Many endemic species cover the garden among which Degenia Velebitica is famed as the symbol of Velebit. Lots of rare plants include: Sibirea croatica, Leontopodium alpinum, Primula kitaibeliana, Dianthus velebiticus. Only one hour would take to easily cross the garden area.

Premužić Trail

Starting 45 minutes from Zavižan towards the village of Baške Oštarije Premužić trail follows mostly a straight path ruled by the harsh stone. Though it is straight, carrying our backpacks during 3 days made it a pretty heavy challenge.

The impresive stone art creates the feelings of another planet. Forrestry engineer Ante Premužić engraved his name into the wild and majestic existence of Velebit. Finished in 1933. it reminds of our co-existence with nature.

National Park North Velebit stretches towards the mountain hut Alan which requires 5 hours of walking not counting the peaks. We crossed it in 9-10 h because one lady in our group got muscle cramps and we had to wait longer that predicted. It was someone I saw the first time though our leaders and organisators are passionate mountaineers that triumphed Mt. Blanc, Elbrus and now preparing for Kilimanjaro. The lady joined us only at the finishing point at Baške Oštarije after unsuccessful first day.

Rossi’s Hut and snow in the spring

On the half way we arrived at Rossi’s hut where the longer pause was determined including lunch or better to say picnic, fabulous views and meeting our new company during the road- mountaineers from Šibenik. It’s was an opportunity to share my mexican/mayan chocolate which was waiting few months to be shared with friends as all my hiking trips got cancelled. This place is designed as just a hut allowing mountaineers only to sleep if needed. Additional facilities are not included.

Our stone path collied with the snow that was pretty hard in opposite with the snow that waited us in the forrest. Learning how to walk in the snow was the inicial lesson of our leader when the first bunch of snow appeared. You may say that magic views were shared thanks to snow.

Majestic stone trail was transforming into canyons at the smaller segments following incredible rock formations. Seeing engraved rocks gave us the question how did Premužić created all this. Even the fallen trees were created by Premužić- we said in joke.

Slowly after Rossi’s hut the trail started to immerge with the forrest. Fabulous seaside views were not lacking as almost during the entire path they ruled. Islands Rab and Pag scattered in all their beauty till we finally arrived at our destination- mountain hut Alan.

Peak Gromovača (1676 m) was missed but fabulous stone peak Crikvena (1641 m) spread out a bit od adventure. Šatorina peak (1624 m) during next day was also missed as the whether was characterised as slightly rain.

Mountain huts

Arriving at Alan signified joy, a bit of stretching and warm dinner. It’s a place without water and electricity so we had to buy water. I hardly charged my phone as the solar electricity functioned so slowly allowing only one phone to be charged at the moment. I am in the process of buying my solar charger, I know. Phone signal was almost unexistant during the whole path. It slightly appeared at Alan sometimes.

Toilet was placed at the distance of one minute warning us about the ecological way of using the toilet paper.

Kugina Kuća- total wildness

Mountain house Kugina kuća (Kuga’s house) as our second destination was kind of similar place except the water well is onsite. We had one big room among few of them so it was quite spacious, I could even practise my yoga in a cozy way.

Our host Miro welcomed us with the big cheer so we can feel the personal spirit. He sang us few songs he wrote on his mandolina ( I’m not sure if that was mandolina) but it was quite surprising that he published few books of poems. After having so much fun with few beers for those who like (me not), we had a recharging sleep as we were totally drown into exhaustion. I even went to sleep around 9 h. Step by step approaching the mountain hut seemed so endless.

It was fascinating to see our next viewpoint at the third day, located 20 minutes by walking from Kugina kuća. We named it a hot-spot as it’s the place that actually catches the phone signal beautifully designed with chairs. It’s was a chance to check out where’s our gone lady, a person that had muscle cramps.

Skorpovac mountain hut appeared on the third day after 2 h of walking which was rather small only with one room but cozy large meadow and a swing. The advantage takes the fact that the toilet is included in the main house.

Before reaching the mountain hut we passed this beautiful camping van that seemed to be placed deeply in the forrest out of civilization. But as the mountain hut came closer, the road was also closer.

Not long after we left Skorpovac mountain hut, a pleasant surprise made our smiles so large. Twice in this hike. We encountered the lovely group of horses which bells greeted us so melodiously. As we passed quickly, they started following us but seemed they we’re expecting some food. As it was our last day, we had only leftovers.

Flora

Lovely set up of flowers exchanged as we were hitting towards south.

Crocus was very familiar at the Norther Velebit delighting our views and realising how many times I was looking for it in vain at home or in Zagreb. And now in May, it’s still here at Velebit.

Gentiana with the vibrant colour mixing blue and purple was quite common towards south.

I caught one beautiful peony.

Some irises in the pups showed up through the rocks. Even some flowers that resembled like tulips.

We were surprised to see the large carpets of flower that was acting totally like primrose. That’s in fact the primrose that grows only on Velebit, Primula kitaibeliana- strictly protectly plant and endangered specie.

Arriving to Baške Oštarije- the end of a path

According to plan we arrived at our final point, the village Baške Oštarije after 7 hours on the road. That means, at 14 h. Amazing rocky peaks shined in the distance somewhere between Dabarski kukovi and the equipe. Civilization was in front of us, at the asphalt road 1 km till the end. It was unpleasant surprise that the same asphalt road turned into the meadow where the gentle brook flows. Our backbacks became heavier and harder instead of easier but the real road finally appeared.

We were looking at the beautiful house across the road, the hostel in Baške Oštarije. That’s the evidence that this village is the perfect base for many hikes in the southern Velebit. We even met a group of mountaineers from our place. We took a lunch at the restaurant onsite which is richly equiped and charged the phone who needed. Also some of us took the chance to buy the local cheese and other milk products including the fruit yogurt. What a pleasant moment.

Final thoughts

Velebit is a novel where each trail has its own story, one named Trail of a Little Prince sounds so inviting and dreamy. Seeing the Velebit mountain from the seaside pulls up the shoes to wear and go, seeing it from above catches amazement of the islands like they’re so near.

Velebit is not only the wildness, it’s learning to save the nature inside, to catch the moment between the art and excercise. Velebit is to Croatia like the strings to guitar, like the hyacinth to spring. It’s the legend that still needs to be found and told between it’s fabulous peaks. Premužić trail is the basis of the basis, trail that is so straight that I wonder if anywhere exists majestic road so straight.  

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